Yesterday, my good friend Matt went back to Melbourne. On the last day he was here we did this thing at the local surf beach, where you face the shore, look nowhere but at the other person back on the shore and walk directly backwards into the crashing waves, without looking behind you.
It was a huge day for surf down at the beach, so needless to say, we got smashed.
But it was a good kind of smashed. We got absolutely pummelled by a couple waves each, but afterwards, it felt great. We were invigorated. Sore in different areas – necks, backs and hips – but feeling great.
Sometimes I’ll try run through the breakers or get wiped out by a wave, spun around, upside down, thrown against the sand and then get up in pain.
And that’s when I like to go home.
But it’s not because of the ouchy pain, it’s because I just felt (and afterwards am still feeling) the raw power of mother nature. That’s a real feeling, a feeling that shows you that you are part of this planet and connected to nature. Even if it hurts.